Amber Fort
As we approached Jaipur, the first place we stopped at was Amber (pronounced Amer) Fort. This was the original Fort and Palace for the Kachhawah rulers, built in 1592. It was last modified by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh in the 1700’s before he moved down to the plains and built the City Palace complex in Jaipur. After lunching at the Blue Stone Restaurant at the foot of the hills, we considered the available options for going up the steep hill to the fort: a 4×4 from the 1960’s, on elephant back or climbing the imposing stairway. I chose the 4×4 to be the quickest and safest way, although my friends recommended the elephant ride. This took us to the imposing Surajpol Gate (pol means gate) of the fort. Getting through this, we landed on the first courtyard, Jaleb Chowk. This was a massive garden where victorious returning Rajput armies were welcomed back by the Maharajas. Construction and renovation enclosed three sides of this, and toward the right was the main stairway to the Palace.
On the side of the main stairway is the Shila Devi Temple that was unfortunately closed when we visited. According to legend, Maharaja Sawai Man Singh I had worshiped the Goddess for a victory over the rulers of Bengal. The Goddess appeared in the Maharaja’s dream and ordered him to recover her statue lying under sea the near Jessore (now in Bangladesh) and install it in a befitting temple. Sure enough, after defeating the Bengal army, the Maharaja recovered the statue from the sea bed. The main stairway lands on the second courtyard, leading to the Diwan-E-Aam, the Hall of Public Audience. This is an open pavilion of double rows of columns each capped by an elephant. To the side of this is another pillared structure (I could not find out what it was used for), with beautiful views down the hill and to the Moata Lake.
From here, you go through an exquisite marble gate, the Ganeshpol Gate to the geometric formal gardens, with the Diwan-E-Khas on the left and the residences on the right. Above the gate is veranda-like space where the ladies of the court could relax, and watch the goings-on of the court without being observed. Beyond the gate, to the right is Sukh Niwas, the Residence of Happiness (or Pleasure). The palace has an ivory inlaid sandalwood door, beautiful glass-inlaid windows, a corner breeze-room with laticed marble walls that allows lots of air in, and a channel laid for flowing water to cool the rooms, eventually flowing into the garden. The Zenana or the palace of the women are connected through a common corridor, cleverly designed to give each room privacy.
The main attraction seems to be the Jai Mandir, the Hall of Victory which also seems to have been the Diwan-E-Khas, but is popularly known as the Sheesh Mahal. This is a gorgeous pavilion with inlaid marble walls and dazzlingly mirrored ceiling and walls. No one is allowed inside, but you can look in from the outside because there are arched openings on three side. This is apparently to prevent further damage – the outside walls have sadly deteriorated with neglect and perhaps vandalism. We learnt that the famous Dilip Kumar movie Mughal-e-Azam from the 1950’s was shot here, with this Sheesh Mahal acting as part of the Emperor’s palace in the movie. This was an awe inspiring piece of architecture, mixing both Mughal and Rajput influences.
